Larnaca Part 3 (Bouzouki Nights)

Finikoudes at Night (Andriani Patera 2013)

There is plenty of nightlife in Larnaca for the average tourist.  Just head back down to Finikoudes for all the food, clubbing or bar hopping that one can stand.  Very popular with locals, Finikoudes is the place to see and be seen.  Beginning at about dusk, the family crowd and the older locals come out to walk along the promenade, get some sea air, admire the big yachts in Larnaca Marina, and sample some of the local food and drink at the many eateries and bars along the way.  As it gets later, the younger crowd comes out, again mostly local, cruising in cars or motorcycles down the strip, stopping at the many fast food joints (KFC, TGI Friday’s, and McD’s to name just a few) to hang out with friends and do what high schoolers and university students the world over seem to do.  About 11 pm the clubs come to life as the family crowd dissipates and the thump of dance music begins to seep out into the street and the real late night mavens come out to play.  

But, being the practical traveler, and a long way past university, my wife and I do the early promenade, skip McDonalds, and get right to some local flavor.  Right near Finikoudes is a great place that my wife’s cousins frequent.  If one wants real local food, great ethnic music and dancing, go to the To Steki Tis Pareas bouzouki tavern on 16 Archbishop Makarios III Avenue.  About 2 blocks behind and 2 blocks east of Finikoudes, To Steki Tis Pareas is easy to get to, has ample parking, and is known by the local residents.  Once inside, the atmosphere is typical Greek tavern, right down to the paper placemats with old song lyrics on them.  Always jumping on a Friday or Saturday night, it is a distinctly local crowd, but with an unexpected mix of youth and age, all with a passion for traditional music and dancing.  Just at our table we had 20 year olds sitting with 40 year olds singing and dancing to 60 year old music, pretty unexpected but great fun!   A live bouzouki band (a bouzouki player and at least one guitar accompanying) is playing new and old Cypriot music, with many of the patrons getting up and displaying their best traditional dance moves and shouting out song requests.  The night we were there with my wife’s cousin and her husband, a traditional dance company (friends of the cousins) dedicated to preserving Cypriot dance and music was there in force showing off the Cypriot dance at its finest, and in between sets, sitting with us enjoying the fact that an American dude with loose ethnic ties to the whole scene could appreciate the music, dance, food and a throw down a few adult beverages as well.   The food is classic local mezze, with cheese, vegetable and meat plates coming to the table in a seemingly non-stop parade of flavorful goodness.   We stayed there until about 3am, drank Carlsberg beer, and ate big.  The band (also buddies with the cousins……..what a surprise…..) sat at our table, drank and talked about everything and anything with us between sets.  The band was pleasantly surprised to meet an American in their local hangout. A good time was had by all.  Regardless of the cousins being there with us, the Cypriot people are open and friendly, and are happy to chat the night away with you over beer, ouzo, food, or any combination thereof.  When we go back to Cyprus next year, there will be at least one evening reserved to hang out at the To Steki Tis Pareas with the cousins.  Anyone staying in Larnaca for any length of time should make a point to check it out.  Local vibe at its very best.  In the next installment, we will begin our travels east to Xylophagou and the beach resorts of Agia Napa.  Until next time……….. 

Larnaca Part 2 (Go to the Beach!)

CTO Beach, Larnaca, Cyprus

As I said in my previous post, Larnaca, Cyprus is a great home base for exploring the whole island, but don’t just sleep there and leave town every day. There is plenty to do in Larnaca and it’s definitely worth staying put for a couple of days to really enjoy the city and its immediate surroundings. The typical day for me and my wife is getting up and going to her Dad’s for breakfast.   I realize not everyone has Dad at his or her beck and call for a nice breakfast, but there are many options in Larnaca. Most neighborhoods have bakery or shop where local bread as well as halloumi cheese can be bought to make a nice breakfast sandwich with a coffee. Also add some watermelon or cantaloupe to that mix and you have the makings of an excellent Cyprus breakfast. If going out for meals is your thing there are many cafes throughout the city, and we haven’t found a bad one yet.

After breakfast, there are options. Beach, siesta, go to the mountains…..etc. I like the beach. Why else go to an island if you’re not going to the beach?? In Larnaca there are some excellent beach choices, all very different in character but all within about 15 minutes or closer by car from the city center. The beach at Finikoudes is in the middle of everything. Right downtown, next to the Larnaca Marina and backed by the Finikoudes promenade with its restaurants, shops and clubs, the beach has all of the amenities the tourist could want. The beach has free entry with a small rental fee for sunbeds and umbrellas. There is a mix of locals and tourists which makes for a very lively atmosphere, even if it is a bit crowded during peak season. A great choice and super-easy to find. To the west, but still in the city, is McKenzie Beach. Very close to the airport and backed by a strip of hotels, bars, and restaurants, McKenzie Beach is most popular with the tourist crowd. There is plenty of parking and easy access, but if you are looking for a quiet beach day, this isn’t the place. Third, and our favorite, The Cyprus Tourism Office (CTO) Beach is about 15 minutes east of downtown and is a great place to spend a beach day. CTO Beach is located on the Dekhelia Road, has plenty of free parking, free beach access, and a couple of small cafes to get snacks, a drink or a sandwich. Sunbeds and umbrella can be rented for 2.50 euros per day.   The water is shallow for a quite a ways out from the beach (great for kids) and is very warm even in September when we are there. The sand is usually well groomed and clean as well. The beach also stretches quite a long way, perfect for joggers or walkers who want to go for a fair distance. Like I said earlier, it’s our favorite place in Larnaca to catch some sun, mix with the locals, and have a relaxing beach day.   Once you’re home from the beach, take a small siesta, and then get ready for dinner and fun. Next time, a Larnaca night spot with great local flavor, and that’s not just the food……….

Arrival in Cyprus/City of Larnaca Part 1

Traveling to the Republic of Cyprus is as easy as going to any other country in the European Union. The smart way to get there from the states is usually a connection via London. Since there is a large diaspora of Cypriots in greater London, there are many regular flights to Cyprus, so making a connection to Larnaca through Heathrow has been a snap for me. British Airways has regular non-stop flights to Larnaca International Airport from both Heathrow and Gatwick, so there is some flexibility in booking for sure. A full service international airport, Larnaca International has all the conveniences one would find at any major international stop. I always book my rental car in advance via the web and pick up my car after passport control/customs. All of the major agencies (Sixt, Avis, Budget, etc.) operate on the island and it’s better to rent a car from one of them than some of the less reputable independent rental agencies on the island. I find GPS is a must, as the streets in Larnaca are not always well marked and the city can be a little confusing until you get the hang of driving on the other side of the road and navigating roundabouts from the left-handed instead of the right-handed perspective! (This is a former British colony after all….)

My wife and I always make our home base in Larnaca for a few different reasons. First of all, her father lives in town. So do a few Aunts, Uncles and cousins, so for us it’s an easy choice. But for the average tourist it should be an easy choice as well. There are many accommodations within the city and its immediate surroundings, ranging from the very basic to the very posh. The great thing about Larnaca is its location. The airport is only about 3.5 miles from city center, a quick and cheap cab ride, or an easy drive if you’ve got your rental car and GPS already. The city itself, the island’s third largest behind Limassol and Nicosia, is on the south coast of the island and only an hour’s drive from just about anywhere on the island. The beach resorts of Agia Napa and Protaras are 40-55 minutes away, Limassol and Nicosia are about an hour away, and Paphos is about 2 hours away by car. Cyprus is the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, after the Italian islands of Sicily and Sardinia (both in terms of area and population). It measures 149 miles long from end to end and 62 miles wide at its widest point so travel by car is never a super-long journey. But Larnaca is much more than just a jumping off point. Exploring Larnaca offers many great options. Walk the palm tree lined waterfront promenade called Finikoudes (Greek for “row of palm trees”) and sample everything from fine dining to fast food, bouzouki bars, quiet pubs, and thumping clubs. Finikoudes ends at the Fort of Larnaca. Turn right at the Fort and head straight into the old Turkish quarter. With its charming and ramshackle architecture, the Turkish Quarter is well preserved and is a great place to stroll, dive into the little shops, get your souvenirs, and have a bite to eat, day or night. Also while in the Turkish Quarter be sure to check out the Church of Saint Lazarus. These are just a few of the sights before leaving Larnaca to explore Cyprus. In my next entry, some more of charming Larnaca, hanging at Dad’s house, and points east on the island. Until the next installment……….